Valentino unveiled its Spring Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection in what looked like an underground club. With a start time of 9:30 p.m., guests were eager, given the 31-degree outside temperature, to see what Pierpaolo Piccioli would come up with next.

Located at the Bridge Club on Pont Alexandre III, the event attracted a crowd that gathered to see which celebrities were in attendance. Descending the stairs to Seine level, stars and influencers stopped on the red carpet to have their photos taken before entering the dark and grungy space. Seated in the front row was a star-studded line-up that included Anne Hathaway, Dove Cameron, Sofia Carson, Sam Smith, Doja Cat, Charli XCX, celebrity stylist Law Roach, Elvis director Baz Luhrmann and his wife, producer and costume and set designer Catherine Martin.

Walking in the show were acclaimed models Anok Yai, the first Sudanese model to open the Prada show in 2018 (Naomi Campbell was the only black model to do so before) and Adut Akech, who starred in the visual album of Beyonce. Black is king.

Quite simply, the collection skilfully straddled the boundary between two very different worlds: the couture world and the club scene—hence the location of the show. Piccioli thinks it is possible to merge the two. “Their shared values: mutual gestures of extravagance, the notion of clothing as tools of transformation, the creation of a true self, a dichotomous yet dual vocabulary of display and revelation, permeability through life,” the notes shared. of the House in the show.

A model walks the runway during the Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2023 in Paris, France.

A model walks the runway during the Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 25, 2023 in Paris, France.

Peter White/Getty Images

From using bulky silhouettes to ones that were fitted and lean and everything in between, the creative director showed a contrast between a highly structured world and a loose realm. There were ruffles giving architecture to the body and reinterpreted polka dots. He also played with details using ostrich feathers, drapes, embroidery and knotted bows in a collection full of personality, emotion and fun.

Wearing a bright neon yellow Valentino ensemble, guest Kylie Minogue said The Hollywood Reporter“I’m still trying to take it all in. I love that it represents individuality. You can see references – I know he was talking about [late performance artist] Leigh Bowery and Grace Jones, which is real high club culture. I just thought it was beautiful. It all happened so fast, I’m going to have to process it all and drool over it all. But the cleanliness of some of them and the cool colors, your blue, your green, your pink, it’s just beautiful. And that confidence looks very modern, and you can see that presence making its way into mainstream fashion.

Following the show, guests were transported to Valentino’s post-presentation party to celebrate the new collection.

Suga, Sam Smith and Charli XCX attend the Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris

Suga, Sam Smith and Charli XCX attend the Valentino Haute Couture Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris

Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images



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