PARIS — Pioneering black performer Josephine Baker — who left the United States to find world fame in Paris in the 1920s — was Dior’s muse for an old-fashioned spring couture collection of archetypal classicism.

With caressing velvets and silks, embroideries, sequins and tiny silver studs, designer Maria Grazia Chiuri may not have reinvented the wheel, but she certainly embellished it beautifully at the Fashion Week premiere. from Paris.

Still, the first day of the event was not without controversy after Dior came under fire for inviting a Ukrainian-sanctioned Russian influencer and Schiaparelli came under fire online for glamorizing trophy hunting after presenting a fake lion’s head.

Glamorous frivolity, exaggerated silhouettes and surreal versions of house founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s 1930s heyday classics.

This was the atmosphere of the first spring-summer couture show of the season — and what a start! – with its gold lashings, intricate embellishments and front-row VIP roll call inside the Petit Palais’ high gilded atrium.

Designer Daniel Roseberry was in top form on Monday – taking classic styles and giving them unexpected twists. A dark, stiff-shouldered, oversized tuxedo has been transformed into a minimalist space-age jumpsuit.

A bronze bustier redesigned as a giant oyster shell rose like a fan that hid the model’s face. Its incredible pearl embellishments have been rendered in organic and crystallized layers showing the skill of the in-house workshop.

A myriad of embellished balls – almost looking like wet pearls – dripped organically from a puffy bolero jacket that cut a beautiful figure, and may have once belonged to an undersea princess.

Yet the collection was also respectful of the house’s founder whose unique brand of frivolity charmed audiences around the world. A giant lion head – replete with fangs and a bushy mane – modeled by Irina Shayk added flair to this collection. It was an inventive nod to surrealism – but also a statement about the absurdity of using fur.

Kylie Jenner, who sat in the front row of Schiaparelli, also sporting a 3D lion’s head and a gold snakeskin bag, was later slammed online amid accusations of glorifying animal cruelty.

Source link

Leave A Reply