Nahmias helped close Paris Men’s Fashion Week on Sunday with a special performance by Kodak Black as a catwalk of models paraded down the catwalk at the Palais de Tokyo.
The performance also marked the start of a new collaboration between the American rapper and the Los Angeles-based brand. At the show, founder and creative director Doni Nahmias unveiled a 10-piece collection he co-created with Kodak Black, the rapper’s first foray into fashion. Pages from Kodak’s personal notebook containing lyrics written in a true stream of consciousness are printed on a purple faux fur overcoat. Purple, a favorite color of Kodak, is present throughout the capsule. A key look is a purple bespoke suit with a rhinestone heart sewn into the lapel and the words “love” and “war” knitted into the sleeves.
As for footwear, Nahmias is expanding its Five-O sneaker program, which it first launched in the Spring 2023 collection in June. This season sees the addition of new colourways as well as leather and sherpa styles. “The sherpa adds a playful element to the collection, which is heavily influenced by hip-hop,” Nahmias told FN during a pre-show presentation. The playfulness lives on in the bunny slippers the designer developed for the show, but he admitted to FN that they won’t go on sale anytime soon. There will, however, be a new style unveiled for Spring 2024, Nahmias added.
Elsewhere in the collection, which Nahmias has dubbed “California Poetry,” references to ’90s California hip-hop culture are featured throughout. According to the exhibit notes, the collection serves as a “modern translation” of Nahmias’ California upbringing and the “modern embodiment” of the designer’s personal closet.
Drawing inspiration from personal vintage pieces in her wardrobe, the collection’s silhouettes are relaxed and easy. Fuzzy faux fur outerwear, fuzzy bobs, graffiti print on baggy wide leg jeans and slacks are reminiscent of the 90s cut. Denim also sees some embellishments and patchwork.
Drawing on the ethos of the brand’s code and DNA, poppy flower imagery and iconography are featured in the collection. With California poppies being the official state flower, the collection’s silk pieces feature custom poppies hand-painted by the brand’s painter.
Additionally, couture makes its debut for the brand this season, an elevation of Nahmias approach to aesthetics. Blazers are oversized, pants have a stylish puff fit and color tones allow each piece to be worn individually. Another addition is the use of California poppies in the collection’s silk pieces, a nod to California’s state flower.