“Missoni is a language that has been spoken for 70 years,” Filippo Grazioli said during a pre-autumn meeting. “My duty is to introduce new words, to expand his vocabulary.”

Simplify, edit, rationalize, this is Grazioli’s new terminology, its glossary to update the label’s lexicon. After drastically reducing the color spectrum to a few colors (white, black, magenta, cyan and yellow) and reducing silhouettes to thin vertical lines, it now opens up the palette to more missonian variations, while adding fluid options to shapes . and proportions.

Some of the items he just introduced in the men’s fall collection were also offered for pre-fall, such as rainbow-colored mohair cardigans and denim pieces done in a version textured update flamed pattern. He loosened up the bulk of the knits a bit, as in slightly roomier sweaters, jackets and coats worn over his short, form-fitting, slender minidresses. The game of pattern and texture contrasts is more accentuated: zig-zag, checks and fiammato, often woven with lurex yarn to give surfaces shine, are puffed up in micro/macro renderings. Rachel and big cups the fabrics (which are produced exclusively in-house with special textile machines) were fashioned into high-waisted masculine trousers, soft tailored overcoats worn with matching miniskirts or form-fitting minidresses.

Grazioli also offered greater chromatic variety, adding tones of lilac, rust, pastel and bright red to the basic palette of optic white and black. Relaxing into his role, he honed his approach to the label: “I want Missoni to be real, timeless and ageless,” he said. “I want to see people on the street wearing it – I want it to be actually wearable, not just a fashion fantasy.”

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