Translated by

Roberta Herrera

Published



January 24, 2023

Throughout a weekend of men’s shows, Paris has dedicated a special place in its fashion week to streetwear culture. A creative and dynamic movement in the industry that attracts expert buyers as well as journalists and celebrities, especially from the United States and Asia. Creative approaches and clearly marketable designs have been showcased by some of the rising brands in this burgeoning segment.

Gunther comes of age

Gunther presented long and oversized coats – Gunther / Olga Gasnier

Founded in 2019 by designer Naomi Gunther, the chic Parisian streetwear brand demonstrated its maturity at Paris Fashion Week with a collection reminiscent of the 90s, with more sophisticated and elevated streetwear. Her fashion show brought together her many guests last Saturday morning on the brightly lit upper floor of the Garage Amelot in the Marais district.

Sharing the same space as the Tranoi lounge, the men’s lounge combined a unique take on classic streetwear with contemporary couture touches. This hybrid vision has, for now, allowed Gunther to seduce French rappers like Hatik, SCH, Soolking and footballer Djibril Cissé, who paraded for the brand’s last fall-winter 2022 show.

On Saturday, a barefoot model dressed in a black suit decorated with small round metal plaques bearing the brand’s logo opened the show. Next, a vintage-inspired oversized long wool coat was paired with shorts in the same heavyweight fabric and a similarly styled two-piece suit.

Unstructured cotton shirts, in their white or striped version, to which is added the name of the brand in different formats; wide ties with crystal details bringing a preppy touch to the collection or a full range of knits that included long frayed sweaters, wide scarves or even striped t-shirts and trousers. The final look was worn by famed rapper and brand ambassador Franglish, who closed the show in a long wide lapel coat, matching his tie and casual sunglasses.

Knitwear has been the star of several looks – Gunther / Olga Gasnier

“It’s a collection inspired by the 90s. I wanted to pay a little tribute to the year of my birth, 1995, by going back to all these images from my childhood that inspired me: fabrics from the beginnings of internet, the sportswear of the time and the rebellious bad boy style”, explained the designer, who studied at the Parsons School of Design in New York, where she lived for three years and where her fruitful relationship with the streetwear, at FashionNetwork.com.

And on the conspicuous presence of logos affirming the very name of the brand, she adds: “It seemed logical to go this route, considering that it was a decade defined by logomania. I wanted to do it in a subtle way, in small details like the coins on the costume, or in very visible graffiti, emphasizing the ‘bling bling’ side of the time. In the end, it’s a way of reaffirming itself and presenting Gunther as an established brand.” Future plans for the Parisian brand include the continuation of its local production, collaborations with artisans and artists, and “the commitment total” to its “ever-growing” creative community.

Doublet presents a Freak Parade

Doublet – Fall-Winter 2023 – 2024 – Men – France – Paris – © ImaxTree

The statues of Vauquelin and Parmentier, two illustrious French pharmacists, had probably never seen anything like this before. On this chilly Sunday morning, the bronze statues seated on thrones in the entrance courtyard of the Faculty of Pharmacy in Paris carried inflatable balloons on which was written “I am a balloon”, like the remains of a festive evening. . Without a doubt, the most extravagant experience that has ever taken place within the walls of the institution.

A queer collective, dressed in latex animal costumes or cheerleader looks, first ended their night dancing in front of archways and a stunned audience hiding under fleece blankets. The participants of this Doublet evening were not bothered by the bad weather conditions, exiting through the front door of the faculty at high speed.

Masayuki Ino, the creator of the Japanese brand, has been fascinated by underground communities and quirky portrait galleries ranging from punk to morbid for the past ten years. For this fall-winter 2023-24 show, he imagined a freak show, or a radical approach to inclusivity on the very calm left bank of Paris. The ringleader walked across the yard dressed as a giant pink and white rabbit who endured the torments of a sleepless night, holding the rabbit’s head under his arm.

Doublet – Fall-Winter 2023 – 2024 – Men – France – Paris – © ImaxTree

Behind him, some models had removed their tops, revealing only a shirt, a tired young man was wearing his school uniform over shag pants. An oversized leather jacket was worn over a fuchsia hoodie and wide, straight black pants with a panda head bag. All body types were represented in this character gallery, with slender young women wearing a green skirt over a gray terrycloth tracksuit or a mega oversized blazer over a denim skirt and a pair of Furoshiki, a shoe brand inspired by traditional slippers Japanese.

Among stand-out looks (like that of a frightened child with a sweater turned over his head), the Japanese label featured pieces like a tonal-embroidered bomber jacket, a dark green puffer jacket worn over shorts and check sneakers or, for women, a white turtleneck sweater whose sleeves end in pleats creating an overlay of ruffles, over extra-large ripped jeans.

Bourgeois for some, jackets and shirts, or more proletarian for others, yellow vests and work clothes, the participants in this party came from all walks of life, as if it erased social borders by excess. In the end, it was a supercharged parade, like a destabilizing adrenaline rush on a Sunday morning.

California poetry and hip-hop Nahmias

Nahmias – Fall-Winter 2023 – 2024 – Men’s Fashion – France – Paris – © ImaxTree

The last day of the men’s fashion week still held some interesting surprises. This was the case with the show organized in the effervescence of the Palais de Tokyo by the American brand Nahmias which, although it is the brand’s third show in the capital, does so this time with obvious ambitions for growth in internationally thanks to its casual line, streetwear clothing designed to appeal to rappers and sportsmen. Celebrities such as Justin and Hailey Bieber and Lewis Hamilton are already among her loyal customers.

On this occasion, American rapper Kodak Black signed a joint capsule collection and took to the podium to provide the show’s closing music, while Ferrari Formula 1 driver Charles Leclerc of Monaco captured the moment from the front row with his own camera. Of course, they both wore clothes bearing the Doni Nahmias brand logo.

If the pink bunny costume was one of the stars of the Doublet show, Nahmias was loaded with references to the small mammal: hoods with long floppy ears, prints on the hats or even fur-stuffed slippers paired with baggy cargo pants . A probable tribute to the Chinese New Year, celebrated in Paris with events around the Place de la République and dedicated this year to the rabbit, which also serves as a nod to potential Asian buyers keen on streetwear.

Nahmias – Fall-Winter 2023 – 2024 – Men’s Fashion – France – Paris – © ImaxTree

“In every collection there is an element of California homage, and this season I was inspired by the culture and style of 90s hip-hop. The time when hip-hop style was so widespread in youth culture,” Doni Nahmias, the boss of the California-founded label in 2018, told FashionNetwork.com.

“I took from my personal archives and my personal wardrobe what I wore back then and tried to translate it into modern times by employing basic 90s style silhouettes mixed with the manufacturing current”, he added, about the references of his latest collection.

Inspired by vintage pieces, the American designer has created comfortable and relaxed silhouettes, with a fluid approach to streetwear. Hooded coats in faux fur, bucket hats, graffiti prints, loose pants and shirts, some in silk, decorated with images of poppies as a tribute to the brand’s DNA and its native California. In informal looks, denim is reinterpreted in the form of patchwork, while the suit, essential this season, makes its way into looks with checkered coats or suit jackets.

Based in Los Angeles, Nahmias currently has an international distribution network of 75 points of sale in Europe, North America, the Middle East, China and Japan. Her clothes are sold at well-known retailers such as Maxfield, The Webster, Saks Fifth Avenue, Browns and Harrods.

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