Written by Nick Remsen, CNN

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A few weeks ago, Mick Jagger posted a holiday message to his Instagram feed as he wore a dark red paisley shirt, its pattern swirling with canary yellow and inky black detailing. There was something nostalgically glamorous about the piece: decadent yet comfortable, it suited Jagger’s rockstar bohemian aesthetic as well as his timeless presence. “Maybe he got it for Christmas,” Emily Adams Bode Aujla, designer of the garment and founder of her eponymous brand, Bode, joked during a Zoom call from Paris.

Since launching her New York-based brand in 2016, Bode Aujla’s designs – often repurposed from meticulously researched vintage garments – have been spotted by many famous fashion designers, including Harry Styles, Jordan Peele, Bruno Mars, the Jonas Brothers and many more. . “With his tour,” Bode Aujla said, “(Harry) signed with Gucci, but he’s one of our most loyal customers in Hollywood. He carried us off stage a lot. We were waking up to pictures of paparazzi.” At the same time, Bode has amassed a substantial base of fashion fanatics and savvy consumers around the world, all for clothes that gravitate, she said, to a “sentimentality of the past.”

Harry Styles wore a Bode lace shirt while out with Olivia Wilde in New York in 2022.

Harry Styles wore a Bode lace shirt while out with Olivia Wilde in New York in 2022. Credit: Robert Kamau/GC Images

These, for example, include: colorful quilted work jackets, bomber jackets with 1940s Hungarian appliqués, lightweight shirts with replicated prints from 1920s French textile factories, and whimsical hand-decorated corduroys (like the one seen on Styles in Vogue in December 2020). Much of what Bode sells is unique, with clothing reinvented from unsold textiles and vintage clothing. The rest features a kind of historical reproduction, until it calls “hyper-intentional” details such as buttons or stitching.

Still, while relatively down to earth in its approach, Bode falls into the luxury category when it comes to price. Currently, quilted jackets cost between $1,000 and $2,000. A pair of socks – two-tone with embroidered flora – will set you back $250.

“We are talking about material and technique,” ​​said the designer. “What we do really fits into the idea of ​​preserving craftsmanship. You wouldn’t necessarily think the silhouettes are dated, but there are labor-intensive techniques that we put into clothes that are definitely from another era.”

Bode evokes emotion through reworked vintage clothing and historical reproductions of 20th century clothing.

Bode evokes emotion through reworked vintage clothing and historical reproductions of 20th century clothing. Credit: Victor Virgil/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

An emotional connection

Her clothes resonate with deeply personal and emotional references: much of her creativity is informed by an exploration of remembrance, family dynamics and domestic settings – and how she experienced each of these subjects, much of it in the East. of the United States, for 32 years. Bode Aujla was born in Atlanta and spent much of her childhood in Massachusetts (an old family home on Cape Cod, no longer pictured, looms large in her memory). She became interested in vintage clothing from an early age and was deeply engaged in the stories of the past told by her mother and extended family. This is visible in his creative output. For example, for its Spring 2018 programming, Bode Aujla traveled to Peymeinade, France, to meet her uncle’s mother. The woman told Bode Aujla about the attic (the attic in French) of her own childhood home. Bode Aujla was captivated, and the piece would inspire this season’s overall collection, which used terrycloth, old quilts, and more. This is one of many such examples.

His creations are strongly influenced by his own life and the history of his family.

His creations are strongly influenced by his own life and the history of his family. Credit: Victor Virgil/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images

At the same time, Bode Aujla’s work fits perfectly into the current zeitgeist: a pioneer in ethical fashion design (upcycling, for example, is now much more common than when she launched her brand seven years ago), she also timed the trend-measures perfectly, though her clothes aren’t designed around trends: Gen-Z’s clothing aesthetic borrows heavily and distinctly from decades past.

Bode Aujla also has news for 2023: it just added womenswear to its brand’s offerings, launching the new designs alongside its latest fall-winter menswear collection at Paris Fashion Week on Saturday.

This new line included historical reproductions of 1920s dresses and 1940s dresses as well as replicas of 1970s clothing that Bode Aujla’s mother, Janet, has kept and passed down. “This first official collection of women’s clothing is about my mother and a very specific period of her youth in Massachusetts,” explains the designer. “She had a job as part of a seasonal staff at a house on Cape Cod. The house was owned by an elderly woman who dressed in full evening dress, every night, for dinner.”

The brand unveiled its first women's ready-to-wear line during Paris Fashion Week.

The brand unveiled its first women’s ready-to-wear line during Paris Fashion Week. Credit: Estrop/Getty Images

Older grandeur was seen with a gold sequined coat, a simple champagne-colored bib-collar dress, pretty antique embroidery on cardigans and jacket lapels, and even a Western twang with fringed suede. It was an ambitious concept that spanned a decade. And it’s sure to expand the Bode Pool.

While Bode Aujla has long drawn on her personal experience and observations for inspiration, she recognizes that emotional connectedness – born by looking within and fueled by the power of family – is universal, regardless of ancestral intimacy. specific.

This familiarity is felt, in part, in its physical stores, one of which operates in New York, the other in Los Angeles. They are studied and look like living rooms, LA being a little more academic, New York a little more intimate. Retail is the second part of Bode Aujla’s 2023 plan: it aims to open a third store, this time in the UK or Europe.

“We’ve had phenomenal growth through our retail stores,” Bode Aujla said. “I think a lot of people have become loyal to the brand because of how personal a lot of the clothes look or feel to them once they touch them.”

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